You can't get non-Lonely Planet guide books up here in the north unless you wait three weeks for a special delivery. It's considered unpatriotic even to ask for one. And there is no online bookshop in Australia - even Amazon haven't made it to this part of the world. So we'll see if we can get the very nice Rough Guide to South East Asia that we had when we set out but gave to a girl in Mexico because we had no room in our bags, when we get to Singapore.

We booked day trips to Kakadu National Park (Sunday) and Katherine Gorge (Monday) at the hostel. They get a large amount of commission for booking tours for people when all they do is phone someone and tell them we're coming. I didn't really want to give them our business but it makes it easier - they won't store luggage if you don't book with them, for example. And we've been promised a room of our own on Monday, which is nice, so I was in a better mood.

We decided to have a look at some oil storage tunnels, built under the city to protect the oil during the second world war. Darwin was very badly bombed, but the tunnels were never used because the war ended. It was a random, and interesting, thing to see. These huge caverns, holding 3 billion litres of oil (I think that's about 84 million gallons) each were really just big empty tunnels, but in the great tradition of underground exploration we wandered in and looked at the photos of all the bombings. Weird but fun.

We took our lunch to the park again and sat under a tree reading for a bit - it's nice to feel relaxed again - until a parrot started using me as target practice, and we moved to the middle of the field. Finally we stopped at the supermarket to get supper and went back to the hostel to do some washing and pack our bags for an early start tomorrow morning.

At an appropriate England time (8pm was 10.30am at home) I spent a while phoning home and talked to everyone without waking people up, which was nice. And once again back to the hostel to sleep.