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Thursday 28th October - Beijing
By Claire
Friday, 29th October 2004 05:05

We set the alarm a little later this morning which was nice. We had a few things to take care of too. Firstly was the small matter of paying for another night. We had taken the coward's way out in terms of asking to stay another night, by emailing the hotel. Their resident English-speaker had replied and said it was all sorted but we'd have to pay for it. That's what we tried to do, but, after various phone calls and misunderstandings, we think that the 200 Hong Kong dollars we paid as a deposit has been used to pay for the room, so we didn't actually have to pay anything at all. At least they haven't chucked us out yet.

Second on the list was to pick up and pay for the train tickets, which was very easy. We even asked the nice lady at the tourist office to write down the words for an international phone card, and, on the way back to the station, we managed to acquire one with no trouble at all.

Then there was the hunt for either an ATM that would accept my credit card, or somewhere that would change the last of our travellers' cheques. It took about an hour to walk to a bank of China, but we got there in the end. The only hitch was that Mikey's signature on the cheque had a distinct 'r' in it, but his normal one doesn't. He had to sign the cheque seven times, making the letter as obvious as possible, before the lady would accept it.

Then out to the Summer Palace, another lovely, massive park. It had a load of traditional buildings in it, lots of pagodas, a huge lake, bridges and trees. It was also so hazy that we could barely see anything, but we walked around and admired it all, imagining the place on a gorgeous summer's day. As we were ambling along, the little girl from the restaurant last night recognised us and waved and said hello. In a city of 14 million people, the chances of bumping into someone like that must be quite remote.

As the sun went down, we went back to town. The taxi driver gleefully pointed out a nasty accident and got as close to the wreckage and blood and shoes scattered in the the road as possible before miming that the car had hit a pedestrian who probably flew through the air for a while. He seemed amused at our horror.

We went back to last night's restaurant for some duck. Their Peking duck looked very nice and we'd been waiting for it all day. It was a simple matter, so we thought, of ordering duck for two. Not so. Waiters arrived with two plates of pancakes, four dishes of cucumber, four of onions and two large bowls of sauce. Then a plate of crispy duck fat arrived, followed by thin slices of meat and a large platter of the rest of the bird. And three more plates. Duck for two meant two ducks. Our table, orignally for six, was now covered with plates and bowls. But it was delicious, even better than the famous place down the road. The duck was less fatty and the slices were proper meat. We ate and ate, desparately trying to make headway in the huge piles of food. We had just about finished when the waiter arrived with a massive plate heaped with all the duck's organs in a stew. And another one. And then two enormous basins of duck soup, one of which would probably have fed six hungry people as a main course. I tasted them both (even the offal, which I really dislike), but it was only a token gesture as we were both already far too full. We paid, embarassed at our over-ordering, and left!

We went back to the hotel and asked at the main reception if we had to dial a number for an outside line. Between the doorman and the receptionist, we understood that we would have to pay a deposit to make an international call, and that our phone would have to be enabled, and this was all relayed to the reception staff at our little bit of the hotel. We tested out the phone card and found that it worked well, which was good news, so we went out and bought another one! Then we wrote diaries for ages with the television on. I saw some of the national fin-swimming championships which looks great fun, and a bit of a documentary about rabies, or 'crazy dog disease' as it's known.



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