Today was our fifth wedding anniversary. Mikey had somehow managed to escape from my sight for long enough to buy me a beautiful lapiz lazuli (a Chilean speciality) and silver necklace that I'd seen in a shop earlier in the week. And, because we'd ordered wine from the hostel for an impromptu party tonight, the hostel guys presented us with flowers at breakfast. I felt very spoiled.

We went to the supermarket to get a picnic lunch again, then wandered into town. One of the big government buildings has a small park outside it, with a semi-circle of three-tier stone benching, and this was littered with tired dogs, draped over the steps and lying on their backs in the grass. It was a lovely warm summer day again. The main square, the Plaza des Armas, was very busy with balloon-sellers and picnicers. I don't know where everyone comes from in Santiago - during the week, at any time of day, there are hundreds of men and women in smart, business-like dress crowding the metro and the shops. It seems like no-one actually goes to work. The town is much quieter at the weekends, but everyone had come out for lunch today, and were causing quite a stir among the clouds of pigeons hoping for food.

After our lunch, during which we had to duck periodically to avoid the swarms of pigeons, we headed for the museum of pre-Columbian art, which had been recommended. We spent several hours walking backwards and forwards through the exhibits trying to find the English descriptions. I really liked the pottery and statues some of which were dated to about 1500BC, and the museum was huge. There were items from every region and period, and it brought all the Central and South American things we'd seen in the last couple of months together.

In the evening we went back to the hostel with a giant chocolate cake, opened several bottles of wine and had a mini party while trying to cook supper. Loads of people emerged to wish us a happy anniversary, which was a bit weird because it really had nothing to do with them at all, but it was a nice evening. Mikey made up for my not drinking, and I took advantage of his imbeverished state by beating him at cards for once. Which was nice.